Tuesday, January 8, 2013

3 days in Salzburg


We recently spent 3 days in Salzburg, Austria. With so many tourism websites online, it usually becomes an information overload and it is difficult to shortlist what to visit and what not to. So I thought of putting together a real experienced itinerary.

Please note these 3 days were spent in winter season towards the end of December. Someone visiting in summer might need to modify a bit due to increased day light timings.

Before moving on to sightseeing, I would recommend purchasing a Salzburg card. Salzburg card costs 30 euros for 48 hours (or 35 euros for 72 hours). We purchased it at the Salzburg station. However I believe it’s available at almost all major tourist information centers / hotels. The card validity starts from the time of its first usage. (more information on: http://www.salzburg.info/en/sights/salzburg_card)

Day 1

Start your trip with Hohensalzburg Fortress at the Festungsberg mountain: There is a cable car from the “festungsbahn” stop right behind the Dom. Salzburg card covers the cable car and the entry inside the fortress. There are two ways to explore the castle – A & B. Both are covered by the card and both are worth doing. While B covers the interiors and you get to see the state room and museum; A is a walking guide tour of the exteriors and the highest point on the fortress. From that point, you get a very good view of the city. Keep approximately 3 hours for this attraction. Some side information: The fortress is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe. Look out for the evolution of castle in Walking trip A as each Archbishop developed the castle during its reign. Also don’t miss the Golden Room where the entire hall was decorated by either gold tapestries or had gold buttons in the ceiling.

Come down and see the Dom: Once you come back (again by the cable car), you can go inside the Dom. The Salzburg Cathedral is a 17th century baroque cathedral and is grand and beautiful. Don’t miss the cathedral excavations in the basement which sometimes have an art exhibition going on. Keep approximately 1 hr for this. Entry is free.  Some side information: Mozart was baptized in the cathedral. Also the cathedral was destroyed by s single bomb in second world war and took almost 15 years to restore.

Visit the Residenz in front of the Dom: Alongside with the Hohensalzburg Fortress and the Dom, the Residenz Palace is probably the most important historic building of Salzburg. Within Residenz place, you can see the rooms in all its original glory and also visit the paintings in the Gallery section. Depending upon how much time you want to spend in the galleries, you can keep around 2 hours for the Palace. (Ticket price is covered in Salzburg card).

In between for lunch, you can either eat at the numerous stalls at the Altermarkt area or there is a nice cosy place called MyIndigo at the river near Rathaus bus stop. This place serves quick lunch and I would highly recommend it. There are also some 2-3 vegetarian options.

Move onto Mozart’s Geburthaus. Visit the rooms and the museum inside the house. The place shows the early years of Mozart and the room where he was born. Also covered are the stage models of his performances. (Ticket price is covered in Salzburg card). Side information: The Mozart family lived on the third floor of the "Hagenauer House" at Getreidegasse 9 for twenty-six years, from 1747 to 1773.

With this, you have covered the 4 most important and visited places in Salzburg. If you still have some energy left, you can close your day by a visit to either the Salzburg museum or the Panorama museum just alongside the Dom next to Mozart’s statue. While I didn’t get to visit either, I understand the Salzburg Museum offers interesting insight into the city's history, offering changing exhibitions. Panorama Museum offers wonderful views of the landscaping of Salzburg. As per their official site: You can stand on the visitors’ platform and marvel at the gigantic round painting (26-meter circumference) of the historic city of Salzburg and its environs. Telescopes allow visitors to take a closer look at the attractions and details from the everyday life of Salzburg's residents 200 years ago. Please keep in mind in winters, almost all attractions close at 5pm. Hence not much can be covered in a day. In summers, you have the luxury of time and light by your side

In the night just stroll along the many streets in old market and enjoy the lights and touristy atmosphere. There is usually an ice skating rink (very reasonable) right next to Mozart’s statue and alongside are many Glühwein stalls. So either you can have your dinner there or at one of the many interesting restaurants in the vicinity.

Day 2

Start your day early as today you would be visiting the mountains and experience some snow. If you fancy skiing, then this is your day.

Take bus 25 or 28 to Untersbergbahn. The bus can be taken either from Mirabell platz or Rathaus. (by the way the local transport is covered in Salzburg card). Mt. Untersberg is the nearest mountain from the Salzburg city. The journey time is approx 25 mins. From the bus stop, there is a cable car to the top of the range. The cable journey takes you up by around 1.3kms and takes approx 10-12 minutes. If you are visiting in winters, then this is the closest place to see snow and ski. Although it is not a professional ski resort but lot of people bring their gear and ski here. Alternately, you can just enjoy walking on the snow. You can trek on the snow up towards some interesting sights. Look for the large crosses and follow the path laid out for you. Beyond a certain point, the actual path stops and people take their own risk to venture further. There are also supposed to be some ice caves for the more adventure trekkers. You can keep easily 4 hours for Untersberg.

On the way back, stop at Schloss Hellbrunn / Anif Zoo. Depending upon your interest, you can visit the Schloss Hellbrunn or the zoo. In winters, the palace is closed. But in summers, the biggest attraction here are the trick fountains which are surely to make you wet. Both attractions are a part of your card. (in case of shortage of time, these both can be skipped).

We didn’t visit the zoo but around 1200 animals of 140 different  species live there including lions, white rhinoceros, and vultures.

Then take the same bus and stop at Mirabell gardens. Spend some time in the beautiful gardens. Look out for the view to the fortress from one end of the garden. It is spectacular. The Palace of Mirabell is also a popular location for weddings. (again if you are short of time, you can skip it).

Just in front of Mirabell Place, is the Mozart wohnhaus which was the living quarters of Mozart. If you have covered Mozart’s geburthaus, then you can skip this although the information here is equally enticing.

Alternately, take the elevators at Mönchsberg, Gstättengasse 13. There are 3 elevators that take you to the top of Mönchsberg hill. From there, you get another view of the Salzburg city and the Hohensalzburg fortress. There is also a museum up there (Museum der Moderne) however we didn’t get time to see this. There is a restaurant at the top where you can sit down and have a coffee / drink while enjoying the panoramic views of the city.

In the night, once again see the beautiful criss crossing lanes and the lit city by the river. You can also visit the Franziskanerkirche which is another beautiful church near the Dom.

Day 3

Once again you will need to start the day early as today we will see some natural wonders, the mountains, valleys, lakes and the salt mines.

Take bus 840 from Rathaus or Mirabell platz or Hauptabahnhof towards Berchtesgaden. The place is in Germany but closer to Salzburg. The day ticket will cost you 9.5 euros but it is still worth it. Unfortunately the Salzburg card doesn’t work. Please keep in mind that the frequency of this bus is very low (on weekends once in an hr; so plan accordingly).

Get down at “Salzbergwerk” bus stop which is 2 stops before Berchtesgaden. (overall journey time around 30-35mins) In winters, the salt mines open at 11am however a big queue starts forming an hr before that. So its best to reach early. Prior to entering, you are given miners’ clothing which increases the experience quotient. The tour underground takes approx. 1 hour. You are first taken through a train deep inside the mountains. From there, a light show is shown and then you slide down to the lower levels (which for some is the most thrilling part in the overall tour). You are guided on how salt was extracted and hydrated. In the end, is a wonderful experience of moving in a wooden boat in pitch darkness from one end to another deep inside the mountains. I would strongly recommend this tour if you have never been inside a mine before. The audio guide is available in English. Salzburg card gives 20% discount.

From there, either take a bus or walk to Berchtesgaden hauptbahnhof (around 15 mins walk). Take bus 841 to Lake Königssee. Alternately in summers, you can visit Obersalzwerg for Eagle’s nest however in winters its closed. Lake Königssee is located amidst the steep rock faces of the Watzmann mountain range. A boat trip on Lake Königssee is the highlight here. St. Batholomä church is also located by Lake Königssee and is at one end of the boating trip.

Depending upon how much time you have, you may decide to extend / decrease your stay at Berchtesgaden. This is an area that alone can be sufficient for a 3 day tour.

Take bus 840 back to close a memorable trip to wonderful holidays in Salzburg.

There are lot of other attractions that are worth visiting like the Museum of Natural History which has a really nice aquarium. Depending upon how compact you want your schedule to be, you may decide to increase or decrease the attractions. The above listed are some of the places that I could cover and found worth visiting. Salzburg is a small city and most of it can be covered on foot.

I hope you find the travelogue useful.